Food is one of those common denominators in history, something that connects everyone to a place and often reveals something important about the heritage and identity of a specific locale. Armed with that knowledge and a firm grasp of Alabama history, author Emily Blejwas has attempted to investigate key aspects of some of the state’s most important stories using traditional foods as a gateway. Part travel narrative, part history book, and part cookbook, The Story of Alabama in Fourteen Foods is a unique and entertaining contribution to Alabama historiography.
Each of the fourteen essays in the book explores the history of a food deeply rooted in Alabama’s culinary history, including everything from barbecue to banana pudding. Examined through the lens of the context in which the foods became popular and what they reveal about the various eras of the state’s past, each is a special chronicle of time, place, and people that is both reaffirming for those with some knowledge of the broad contours of state history and revelatory for those who do not.
Blejwas’s narrative is not a dry recitation of culinary facts. Rather, each chapter includes a story of a visit to a location, ranging from the Barbour County kitchen of the granddaughter of the person who created Alabama’s official state cake (Lane cake) to venturing on a turkey hunt in the Winston County. Several iconic restaurants are visited along the way. Unique aspects of state and regional history are revealed in the process. The tradition of barbecue clubs in the west Alabama black belt, how Moon Pies became so intricately associated with Mobile’s Mardi Gras, the story of how Milo’s sweet tea became a regional favorite beverage, and explanations of the origins and continuing importance of community events such as peanut boils and decoration days are all explored in unique and entertaining ways.
This is not a complete history of Alabama by any means, but it does provide life and color to key aspects of a past that exerts a powerful hold on the everyday life of contemporary residents and is a vital part of several regional identities. Arranged in a loose chronological fashion complete with a timeline of major events in Alabama history, the book is useful in understanding a bit of cultural heritage not often explored in historical narratives. And yes, each chapter does contain an inset with original recipes for the curious. The book is original in concept and forms a unique contribution to literature on Alabama’s past.
JMB